Alexandre Mattiussi de friend, "girls are welcome to dress with us"

SHE.Fr.Have you always wanted to draw ready-to-wear for men, has it always been obvious?

Alexandre Mattiussi.I am a man stylist because the beginnings of my career decided so.However, when I was in Duperré (Editor's note: fashion school in Paris), I rather drew women's clothes, it's true.After my studies, during my first job at Dior, I took care of a line called "30 avenue Montaigne", which Hedi Slimane directed and who walked very well.I trained with this classic cloakroom: a coat, a shirt, pants, etc..I loved the simplicity of the subject.Then I worked at Givenchy.So I became a man stylist in this way, even if I always told myself that I would like to make the woman, because this idea excites me a lot.On the other hand now, when I see how it goes for us, I like the male universe even more ...

SHE.Fr.However, we have already seen girls parading for Friends ...

Alexandre Mattiussi.Yes of course.It's because IMI, it's a story of Friends.I have a lot of girls around me.And since there are a lot of girls around me, I naturally want to dress my Friends.A jacket, a shirt, pants, it's a matter of style, taste for sure, but if you mix the pieces well, it works.And we introduced this idea with the January 2014 parade when we scrolled for the first time Caroline de Maigret.She was the only girl.The idea was not to say "we are going to make the woman, but rather the girls you are welcome".We had made three looks for Caroline.She chose her black suit and her white shirt.Hands in pockets, it was perfect.It was the best way to explain that I was going to approach this turn.It puts me in an embarrassing situation because suddenly everyone asks me now when going to make the woman!And for the moment, it is not at all planned.On the other hand, the collections are planned with small sizes.I ask my Friends how far I can go.I ask them and it is the ones who contrast: "that, we wear".For the next collection, I did for example high -waisted pants, thinking of them.The woman, she exists, she will always exist in this way.It is an exclusively male brand but girls are more than welcome to come and dress with us.

Caroline de Maigret at the AMI / collection 2014 parade

SHE.Fr.Why do you think the girls of today have this propensity to dress like boys?Is this a new phenomenon?

Alexandre Mattiussi.I have the impression that it has always existed but that now it is assumed.All of a sudden, there is a commercial opportunity too.The women's market is a bit saturated, there are so many proposals, so many creators, etc..We boys, we are much less lucky, less choice.In terms of style, the marks that draw man are limited.Girls who are looking for pieces with humans, they seek in my opinion to stand out and get rid of their market which is saturated.They will seek creativity in the male emerging market.

SHE.Fr.What do you think is a well-dressed girl?

Alexandre Mattiussi.A well -dressed girl is a sophisticated girl. Je vais utiliser une expression que j’entends beaucoup et que j’aime bien, c’est « l’élégance à la Française ».I am lucky to hear that to offer a Friend.These are not necessarily clothes as such.The idea comes From the attitude.At AMMA for example, this will reflect the fact that my models will be poorly shaved, will smoke cigarettes, will not necessarily be straight. Il y a un flegme Français, une forme d’humour.In girls, I like to find this relaxation.Beautiful girls who do not take my heads please.I like girls who get lipstick in public, girls who dance until the end of the night.I like Effortless girls, but obviously with the pants that need, those who master the clothes, which highlight them, which have a notion of color.To sum up, you need a clever mixture of naturalness and sophisticated.Afterwards, beyond appearance, what I prefer above all, it is the girls who make me laugh.

SHE.Fr.What is unacceptable in a girl?

Alexandre Mattiussi.Nothing is unacceptable in a girl in terms of silhouette, From the moment she is assumed.Girls are fortunate to be beautiful with nothing: a beautiful hair, a beautiful mouth, and off we go.To return to Caroline de Maigret, yes it is worked, but she is the quintessence of this femininity that I love.She laughs hard, she has a real attitude and she always gives the impression, that basically, it is equal to her.And I love that.Maybe that's why she is becoming the French ambassador.

SHE.Fr.Who are the girls who can come to dress at AMI?

Alexandre Mattiussi.The locker room I offer is permissive, I want everyone to have access to it.I try to ensure that the clothes are cut as best as possible, that the price is fair.The approach is honest, sincere.Yes, there is a sophisticated side in the work of materials, colors and proportions, because we are demanding.Girls who want to come, whatever they are, are welcome.All the girls I had the chance to meet, whether Caroline de Maigret, Christine and the Queens, Cécile Cassel, Géraldine Nakache, I had the chance to dress them.I was very proud to dress Christine for the Victoires de la Musique for example.

Christine and the Queens at the Victoires de la Musique / 2015

SHE.Fr.So we will never find a dress at AMA?

Alexandre Mattiussi.No, I do not think so.If I had ever led to launching a woman line, I would always approach it From a male point of view.Obviously, the idea is not to dress girls like boys.For the moment, I really like the idea of telling myself, when I draw a garment, that a coat or pants can also, depending on the way it is cut, go to a woman.Instinctively, when I think of the locker room I could draw for a woman, I would not think at first sight of a dress or a skirt.We don't do it again!

SHE.Fr. Les Frontières se brouillent de plus en plus dans la mode.Girls parade in AMA and boys also sometimes parade in female ready-to-wear parades.We have never talked about androgyny in fact in fact.Friend, brand symbol of a generation?

Alexandre Mattiussi.Already at the time, Hedi Slimane in Dior Homme was playing with these codes. Rappelez-vous, en ne faisant défiler que des garçons, il avait eu le génie d’imposer une silhouette identifiable au premier regard, extrêmement fine, qui brouillait déjà les Frontières de l’androgynie.And women wore these clothes drawn at the base for men, like Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, etc..It was incredible.We Friend, it's the family, it's Friends.So they are necessarily girls too.Yes, I draw man.But making a parade with 45 boys, it would be weird.We had to breathe a little femininity into all of this.

SHE.Fr.Do you think femininity has changed?

Alexandre Mattiussi.What is femininity?A girl in dress with heels?I know that consciences are still quite codified on the subject.I find that a girl is more sexy when you feel her feminine in a pants tailor. C’est une attitude très Française je pense aussi, mais je n’aime rien d’autre que de voir une femme avec un pantalon à pinces et un débardeur le soir, ou avec une chemise et une grande veste.

SHE.Fr.Men's clothes do not go to all girls, it is a question of morphology.Is there a room at AMI who can go to all girls?

Alexandre Mattiussi.I am so flattered at the idea that girls can dress in my house ... I answer pants, without hesitation.The T03 tropical woolen model will go to all girls.I get involved personally (laughs).