First 8b block for young Diego Fourbet

In itself a news that could go unnoticed by the times that run and in the middle of the flow of performance, but which will be appreciated by connoisseurs!First because the block, located in the upper part of the winged spot (Hautes-Alpes), had only been repeated once since its opening by Tony Lamiche in 2005.Then because the young Diego only needed 3 small sessions to tame the beast...And especially in the middle of summer by 30 degrees!

Diego Fourbet in Firewire (8b) at Ailefroide.Credit: Rémi Fabrègue

Firewire (this is the name of the block) is therefore one of the hardest blocks in Ailedfoide, well known to specialists, a real test in grip on the bleeding arched.A real hard block as we like, at the start, which offers 6 intense movements to win the exit.

Two first physical movements in large spills lead to a very small right hand that must be completely cleared in order to find a precarious balance and win a small arched in Bi finger left which serves as an intermediary to the crus of the block, a targetprecise and demanding slit.From there, another small arched to tighten to control a large swing then we go out in a pretty 6c.

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— Thomas Pickford Wed Feb 27 10:22:33 +0000 2019

A block a little in 0/1 mode.0, you can't even hang on the socket.1, you get there and you need enough skin to type tests!Firewire has therefore just experienced its third ascent in 15 years.Opened by Tony Lamiche in its big time, which had managed to do it in the session and on the 8a+side, the little arched of the Crux then lost a microphone picot.Since then, it was only repeated by Math Semond in 2013, proposing to reassess it at 8b.Many French and foreign cadors have broken their teeth, one of the best known being Tyler Landman.

At the beginning of summer, Clément Lechaptois, also very close to success, found a better method in the crux by putting a left foot in place of the law.This is how Diego, disgusting with ease and lightness, settled his account to this superb passage.There is no doubt that it will not be his last 8B!

The ascent has been filmed and will be at the heart of a film on Diego directed by TLC Prod which will be released in the fall!