Kim Jones: "I don't know if the metarers is a healthy direction"
«Les collectionneurs sont des gens heureux», disait Goethe. À la veille de son défilé haute couture Fendi, Kim Jones, 42 ans, en atteste, lui qui collectionne succès, collaborations et distinctions (il a été élu Designer of the Year aux British Fashion Awards 2021 en décembre), outre ses immenses collections de livres rares, vinyles, sneakers, vêtements, dessins, et jusqu’à la correspondance de Diana Vreeland (journaliste et éditrice américaine culte, NDLR). C’est avec une «coolitude» toute British qu’il assure la direction artistique de Dior Homme, à Paris, et celle des collections femme pour Fendi, à Rome, dont il a pris les rênes il y a tout juste un an, après le demi-siècle de règne de Kaiser Karl. Un héritage lourd qu’il a accepté d’un cœur léger, enthousiaste de plonger son regard neuf dans les archives d’une maison historique.
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"The whole Kim's journey shows that he knows how to apprehend the story of a house and respect her DNA," notes Silvia Venturini Fendi.History, yes, but with his touch and finds that belong to him, like a co -limited Fendi capsule collection with Donatella Versace under the Fendace label, or his collab with supreme for Dior: SOLD OUT sneakers even beforeto arrive in the store."Even me, I don't have them," he comments.
Cantor of free mind
From his beginnings, Kim Jones had his fans, including John Galliano, who bought his end -of -studies collection at Saint Martins College, in London.Since then, his ascent has been irresistible and his style has imposed itself, first with Louis Vuitton Man in 2011, then in 2018 at Dior Homme.His trademark: Impeccable tailoring, English, shattered with street elements and a cultivated touch, influenced by her immense library: "I collect things that inspire me.For his first sewing parade at Fendi, in January 2021, he paid tribute to the Bloomsbury Group, these artists and intellectuals enlightened by the light of Virginia Woolf.It was this band of free minds that he also wanted to dedicate his work The Fendi Set (Rizzoli editions), which we publish in preview images signed Nikolai Von Bismarck.This beautiful book, which will be released in March, is the starting point for our conversation:
Madame Figaro. - Comment est née l’idée de The Fendi Set, cet ouvrage explorant en images votre première collection couture, et dont vous avez écrit le texte ?Kim Jones.- I started to think about what you leave behind, a kind of inheritance.So, after working for other big brands, I wanted to document my first collection at Fendi: mark this moment in time, leave a trace.And also give to see how the collection took shape.
Le livre est peuplé de femmes célèbres qui vous inspirent…Il s’agissait de se concentrer sur l’idée de famille, sur Fendi et sur les femmes que je connais, que j’aime et que je respecte : Kate Moss et sa fille, Lila Grace Moss, Naomi Campbell, Cara Delevingne, Delfina Delettrez Fendi… Je voulais montrer leur force et leur pouvoir inspirant.Values that Fendi perfectly embodies.
You are a collector of the works of the Bloomsbury Group. Selon vous, que représentent ces artistes aujourd’hui ?Des écrits de Virginia Woolf aux peintures des artistes du groupe, en passant par les idées politiques de l’époque et les théories économiques de John Maynard Keynes, ils sont toujours pertinents.I like the way this group of modernist outsiders has changed the way people think and made the world more modern.They have been extremely important and continue to be.
Votre dernier défilé Dior Homme, à Londres, était dédié à la Beat generation : encore des esprits libres…En feuilletant les livres de ma collection, j’ai pensé à l’émergence conjuguée de la Beat generation et du sportswear américain, à leur appropriation de ce look, à leur façon d’inspirer, d’amener à réfléchir et à vivre d’une manière différente.They change culture by being counter-culture, by posing a thought in terms of freedom and multiple ways of being, which interests me a lot.I think fashion always arises from a slightly external point of view, non-conformist.
Tout jeune, vous saviez déjà que vous alliez devenir créateur de mode ?Je savais que j’étais créatif.It took me a few years to understand that it would be in fashion.No doubt during my adolescence
Vous avez commencé vos études dans la photographie, y a-t-il eu une influence de votre oncle, le photographe Colin Jones ?Il était évidemment l’un de mes héros, parce que c’était un photographe incroyable ! Mais, pour moi, il s’agissait de faire quelque chose où l’on crée un monde.In fashion, you create the subject with which you work, and you create the universe that surrounds it.My uncle Colin has traveled the world and had so many stories to tell ... It was a source of inspiration, but I didn't want to be a photographer.I was not made for that.
Pourquoi aviez-vous opté pour la mode masculine au Saint Martins College ? Tout simplement parce que je voulais faire des vêtements pour moi et mes amis…
Que vous apporte cette expérience pour la mode femme ?Il y a une structure très stricte et rigide dans la mode masculine.Female fashion is much freer, it only takes a dress to make an outfit, while for a man you have to assemble pieces.I like this female fashion freedom.I still learn, I look at what all these wonderful women around me wear, and this is where my inspiration comes.
Est-ce que votre britishness influence votre travail chez Fendi ? D’ailleurs, c’est quoi un regard British?Je pense avoir une perspective différente.This is probably interesting for Fendi, because the Fendi family was born in Rome, they all lived in Rome most of their lives.My point of view of Rome and Italy is a counterpoint.But I am also a universal being.From my childhood, I had the chance to travel, to see the world, to meet people.So, I also think according to the city where I am.In fact, if we have to talk about "British gaze", it is the influence of London that it is.London is a city of integration, very culturally diversified.That’s why I love her so much.
It is in London that you have just received two awards: Designer of the Year and Leader of Change. Quel est votre prochain grand défi dans la mode ?J’aimerais penser à dans dix ans, mais, ici et maintenant, je suis dans le concret d’une expérience où il faut composer avec cette situation de pandémie.My priority is to work and do my best during this period without thinking about the future, since everything is constantly changing.You have to be adaptable, and I am.At the same time, sustainable development issues are at the center of our reflections, because we have or we all know children.
Est-ce vrai que vous arrêtez les collaborations ?Je n’y pense pas trop en ce moment, je fais un break.But if something is good, I will do it!
Tout le monde semble se ruer sur la mode virtuelle : verrons-nous bientôt un «metasac» Fendi First ?J’en doute.I think what we are doing is anchored in reality, in a crafts of excellence that produces real clothes, so it's about staying in real life.I am both direct and careful on this subject: human beings are sociable creatures, that's all I can say ... I do not know how it translates into the metarers, and if it is a healthy direction, to be honest.If that means that a young person sits in his room all day and does not communicate with anyone, I do not think it is a desirable lifestyle.
Le défilé couture est dans quelques jours… Un indice ?Céleste…
Mais encore ?Je dirais que ça tourne autour de Rome et du concept de créatures divines…
An angel passes.Kim Jones returned to the fittings.While waiting for this parade from another world.
The eye of Nikolai von Bismarck
"Whether they are photos of landscapes, interiors or models, I wanted to create an ethereal and dreamlike atmosphere.Sometimes by dark and melancholy, superimposed, textured, slightly blurred images ... Romantic and dark images, imprints of grace and freedom.The book The Fendi turns out to be a new facet of this young aristocrat, which awakens the curiosity of the paparazzi.
Descendant of the Prussian chancellor Otto von Bismarck, Count Nikolai grew up in London by tutoring the royal family, being lent love stories with Princess Beatrice of York, becoming more recently the official boyfriend of Kate Moss.Assistant to photographer Mario Testino at the age of 16, he also collaborated with Annie Leibovitz.Since then, its black and white portraits have subsidized the pages of the department magazines and its reports in Africa have been exhibited in museums.Friend of Kim Jones, he had signed with him a first work, The Dior Sessions (Rizzoli editions)."There is a timeless time in Nikolai that I love," said Kim Jones.
