The new wave of ultradesible French brands

25/02/2023 By acomputer 351 Views

The new wave of ultradesible French brands

Les nineties ont vu naître Maje, Zadig & Voltaire ou encore Comptoir des Cotonniers.Premium labels positioned in the so -called mid -range sector, between luxury houses and those, at mini prices, often linked to fast fashion.All are distinguished by an effort given to creation, a cloakroom in line with the air of time, as portable as they are.But if these claws are still present, they now see small sisters appear, worn by internet.""""Fashion is a cyclic phenomenon, confirms Priscilla Jokhoo, Director of the Business Service at the Federation of Women's Loading, in France in France.There is a renewal of the offer, a boosted liveliness.A generation emerges with stories different From its elders.""""

First characteristic: the classic business model has lived, that which consists in presenting a collection with multi -brand shops twice a year, in a pro living room. """"Ces sociétés réfléchissent autrement, poursuit l'experte.They define their fashion desire, the customer they wish to seduce and develop strategies, often virtual, to reach it.""""

Thus of Sézane, emblematic example of this second wave.His collections are thought of for young managers looking for a classic and feminine garment.No question of shops or resellers: the Parisian claw is offered only online.Same reflection on the side of Lingerie Girls in Paris, which preferred to put its marketing budget in models and photos for social networks, rather than in a pub.Because these actors are not aFraid to use all the available means. """"Ce peut être de la réalité virtuelle, une réflexion sur l'image, une innovation.They will never say that it is not made for a fashion brand, notes the director of the Federation of Women's ready-to-wear.They have an assumed audacity.""""Result, the shopping experience turns into pleasure, even in Front of the screen of his computer.

Another change, these labels have a close proximity to the end consumer. """"Ils parlent avec leurs clients, demandent leur avis, répondent à leurs questions... L'échange est constant"""", remarque Priscilla Jokhoo.An attitude that creates a feeling of belonging to the community, made up of thousands of brand ambassadors.A phenomenon made possible because the claw has a real identity, that it is embodied by a person, such as the media Jeanne Damas de Rouje, or by values. """"Quand Lisa Gachet, du blog et désormais aussi e-shop Make my Limonade, parle sur son site, le ton est toujours juste"""", constate la Française.Note also that often, the looks are even personified through names like the Claude bag or the Sagan dress.Either as many Friends, repeated From season to season, in slightly modified colors or patterns.

Last specificity?All make sure to offer a fair price, for pieces with neat quality.There is no question of paying a fortune for a sweater which will be bouloche after two washes. """"C'est une promesse qui est respectée et, en cela, c'est différenciant de la concurrence existante"""", conclut Priscilla Jokhoo. Preuve que ces """"petites nouvelles"""" ont de l'avenir, des investisseurs commencent à s'y intéresser.Experienced Capital, Holding launched by the former patterns of Sandro and Maje, has just resumed 45 % of the capital of Standards, a young label which offers the essentials of the cloakroom, by applying transparency on prices.Or how to turn and evolve with the air of time.

Balzac Paris: The literary meeting

The pitch.Created in 2011 by three Friends, Charles, Victorien and Chrysoline, Balzac Paris begins by offering accessories on the internet made in France, like the pap 'node.The name of the label is quickly found, a nice wink at the Treaty of Elegant Life of Honoré de Balzac.Three years later, they are expanding their offer with sweatshirts which, still in this literary concern, are embroidered with names of couples of famous authors, like George Sand and AlFred de Musset, Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir.Gradually, beautiful easy -to -wear basics appear, until a full female cloakroom.Nothing too fashionable, nor too classic.Each must feel good in these thoughts to collect quality fabric and impeccable cutting.

Originality.Being sold exclusively online, the label regularly goes to meet its community, by organizing theme evenings, which honor a personality or a project that is dear to it.Note also that Balzac Paris practices just prices throughout the year.Result ?No sales, which does not prevent the brand From adding a gift to those who would make their shopping during this period.

Best Sellers.There is the Sagan dress and the Marius cardigan, both ended with sweet ruffles, the classic Ulysse shirt or the Honoré scratch sneakers.

Spring-summer 2017.Make way for gingham, stripes, blue...Prints dear to the brand, which are deployed in particular on ruffle blouses.The GABY trench is not to be outdone either, since this garment is reinterpreted with a gingshot motif and steering wheel, or how to combine three strong trends in the season.

www.Balzac-Paris.Fr

American Vintage: Basic darling

The pitch.It is his many trips to the United States who convince French Michaël Azoulay to launch the American Vintage brand in 2005.The starting point ?Update the T-shirt and decline it in an urban and modern way.Finally, it is the essentials of the wardrobe that are revisited in a refined way and in an increasingly appreciated effortless style, in recent seasons.

>>> Pour en savoir plus, lire aussi American Vintage, le rêve américain à la sauce marseillaise de Michaël Azoulay

Originality.How to make basics ultradesible, thanks to natural, fluid and very comfortable materials, without forgetting a perfectly chosen color palette.

The bestseller.His cotton t-shirt, both trendy and timeless, for his fall and her superbly mastered cut.

Spring-summer 2017.Always this relaxed style, which is appreciated for example through an oversized chew dress, thick retro meshes, a fleece trench, a cotton striped bra, slightly longer jackets than usual or pantsshortcut.

www.American Vintage-Store.com

Rouje: assumed sensuality

The pitch.Rouje with a J, like Jeanne Damas, this young Parisian Star of Instagram, total influencer, muse for her friend Simon Porte Jacquemus, Roger Vivier or Mango.A reference to the color of the lipstick that does not leave it, its signature.A name all found, therefore, for the brand online that this brunette with the appearance of Jane Birkin, now an actress too - she plays in Rock'n Roll, the last film by Guillaume Canet -, launched in April 2016, with her long friendDate, stylist Nathalie Dumeix.We find her ideal wardrobe, of seventies inspiration, and which takes up the basics of the iconic Parisian: Caracos, Minijpes, flared jeans and flowery dresses.

Originality.Behind Rouje hides Jeanne Damas, but above all a collective, made up of talents and friends, who are photographers, stylists, artistic directors, models...We discover them on the label's website, at the same time as #LesfillesenRouje, these beautiful who post photos of them, dressed in an outfit of the brand.Nothing better to make the buzz and refer to the e-shop, at the same time.

Best Sellers.In less than a year of creation, a few pieces are already standing, such as the Pascale blouse and its sham -shirt collar, the UMA pants, high waist, slightly shortened and flared, or the draped dress Laura.

Spring-summer 2017.A vintage and poetic spirit dear to Parisian label, with sandals, white, blouses...We also find Jeanne Damascus's love for the South, the Sun and Liberty.

www.Rouje.com

Girls in Paris: Urban lingerie

The pitch.This is the classic story of a young woman who does not find her happiness and ends up launching her brand.Raphaële Four, just thirty and Parisian, created at the end of 2014 Girls in Paris, an urban lingerie claw, sold exclusively on the Internet, at affordable prices.Sets that cost between 39 and 45 euros.A concept built around the premise of the just price, since the label does neither sales nor promotions.

Originality.We are a thousand leagues from women in garter belts, thong and high heels.Here, make way for effortless but nevertheless sexy pieces, the kind of underwear that we put on daily, with jeans and sneakers.Just to continue to stir up the desires of clients, new features are presented every six to eight weeks.

The bestseller.The Charlie lace triangle, all light, sexy but sober.Proposed in different colors and available in new forms: headband, body and garter belt.

Spring-summer 2017.News department, point the homewear line called Maddie, which includes parts combining hook and microfiber.

www.girlsinparis.com

Sézane: The Online pioneer

The pitch.Originally, the Parisian Morgane Sézalory sells the treasures she china online, then customized.By dint of encouragement, she created, in 2013, Sézane - contraction of her name and surname.A brand sold only on the internet, without intermediaries, which allows it to offer quality at the right price.Watchword ?Classics, easy to wear and careful cutting.Just over three years later, the label launches four major collections each year, supplemented by a few limited series. Et livre 10 000 colis par mois, joliment empaquetés et estampillés de la mention """"fait avec amour"""".

Originality.In the absence of shops, customers can walk virtually in the apartment, to soak up the brand's universe, try new products...There is also the bookstore, a place dedicated to books, coffee and bags, and the concierge, which allows you to recover or return its orders.Or three Parisian addresses, which will be completed in 2017 by a space in New York.Without forgetting the Instagram account of La Griffe and that of its charismatic creative, which inspires its very large community of followers.

Best Sellers.In the radius of the iconic pieces are already the small Dean and Claude bags, the cheer jacket Will and the Jack sneakers.

Spring-summer 2017.This new season revolves around the theme of art, with, among other things, an ultra-fluid-flush suit, pretty light dresses and suede abundant.

www.sezane.com

Small tops: the sweetness of the mohair

The pitch.Two sisters, Katia and Vanessa Sanchez, launched the brand, in 1998.The idea?Imagine small tops, rare commodity when it comes to combining quality, light materials, pretty colors and fancy details. Si les Frangines ont commencé avec des tee-shirts, leur gamme s'est élargie à l'ensemble du vestiaire féminin.Optimistic creations, with original patterns and pastel shades, sometimes sprinkled with sequins.This is evidenced by this golden star, which makes these clothes recognizable between a thousand.The brand has more than sixty shops, including three in Belgium, where it is also sold in multi -brand.

Originality.Word of mouth is the success of the label.His community, active on social networks, does not hesitate to like the slightest publication and post photos of his acquisitions, with the hashtag #despetitshautsaddict.Other specificity: the shops are uniquely decorated.And we favor contact there - the sellers call for loyal customers by their first name - and workshops do -it -yourself are organized there, to bring together aficionados.

Best Sellers.Next to the sailor and the quilted jacket, it is the mohair sweater which remains the favorite piece of the label fans.For its soft appearance, the rendering of the color and the beautiful quality of its sons.

Spring-summer 2017. Une saison vitaminée, avec une jolie palette de roses, des imprimés qui respirent le soleil, les Fruits sucrés et l'envie de voyages.

www.despetitshauts.com

Les nineties ont vu naître Maje, Zadig & Voltaire ou encore Comptoir des Cotonniers.Premium labels positioned in the so -called mid -range sector, between luxury houses and those, at mini prices, often linked to fast fashion.All are distinguished by an effort given to creation, a cloakroom in line with the air of time, as portable as they are.But if these claws are still present, they now see small sisters appear, worn by internet.""""Fashion is a cyclic phenomenon, confirms Priscilla Jokhoo, Director of the Business Service at the Federation of Women's Loading, in France in France.There is a renewal of the offer, a boosted liveliness.A generation emerges with stories different From its elders."""" First characteristic: the classic business model has lived, that which consists in presenting a collection with multi -brand shops twice a year, in a pro living room. """"Ces sociétés réfléchissent autrement, poursuit l'experte.They define their fashion desire, the customer they wish to seduce and develop strategies, often virtual, to reach it."""" Thus of Sézane, emblematic example of this second wave.His collections are thought of for young managers looking for a classic and feminine garment.No question of shops or resellers: the Parisian claw is offered only online.Same reflection on the side of Lingerie Girls in Paris, which preferred to put its marketing budget in models and photos for social networks, rather than in a pub.Because these actors are not aFraid to use all the available means. """"Ce peut être de la réalité virtuelle, une réflexion sur l'image, une innovation.They will never say that it is not made for a fashion brand, notes the director of the Federation of Women's ready-to-wear.They have an assumed audacity.""""Result, the shopping experience turns into pleasure, even in Front of the screen of his computer. Another change, these labels have a close proximity to the end consumer. """"Ils parlent avec leurs clients, demandent leur avis, répondent à leurs questions... L'échange est constant"""", remarque Priscilla Jokhoo.An attitude that creates a feeling of belonging to the community, made up of thousands of brand ambassadors.A phenomenon made possible because the claw has a real identity, that it is embodied by a person, such as the media Jeanne Damas de Rouje, or by values. """"Quand Lisa Gachet, du blog et désormais aussi e-shop Make my Limonade, parle sur son site, le ton est toujours juste"""", constate la Française.Note also that often, the looks are even personified through names like the Claude bag or the Sagan dress.Either as many Friends, repeated From season to season, in slightly modified colors or patterns. Last specificity?All make sure to offer a fair price, for pieces with neat quality.There is no question of paying a fortune for a sweater which will be bouloche after two washes. """"C'est une promesse qui est respectée et, en cela, c'est différenciant de la concurrence existante"""", conclut Priscilla Jokhoo. Preuve que ces """"petites nouvelles"""" ont de l'avenir, des investisseurs commencent à s'y intéresser.Experienced Capital, Holding launched by the former patterns of Sandro and Maje, has just resumed 45 % of the capital of Standards, a young label which offers the essentials of the cloakroom, by applying transparency on prices.Or how to turn and evolve with the air of time. The pitch.Created in 2011 by three Friends, Charles, Victorien and Chrysoline, Balzac Paris begins by offering accessories on the internet made in France, like the pap 'node.The name of the label is quickly found, a nice wink at the Treaty of Elegant Life of Honoré de Balzac.Three years later, they are expanding their offer with sweatshirts which, still in this literary concern, are embroidered with names of couples of famous authors, like George Sand and AlFred de Musset, Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir.Gradually, beautiful easy -to -wear basics appear, until a full female cloakroom.Nothing too fashionable, nor too classic.Each must feel good in these thoughts to collect quality fabric and impeccable cutting. Originality.Being sold exclusively online, the label regularly goes to meet its community, by organizing theme evenings, which honor a personality or a project that is dear to it.Note also that Balzac Paris practices just prices throughout the year.Result ?No sales, which does not prevent the brand From adding a gift to those who would make their shopping during this period. Best Sellers.There is the Sagan dress and the Marius cardigan, both ended with sweet ruffles, the classic Ulysse shirt or the Honoré scratch sneakers. Spring-summer 2017.Make way for gingham, stripes, blue...Prints dear to the brand, which are deployed in particular on ruffle blouses.The GABY trench is not to be outdone either, since this garment is reinterpreted with a gingshot motif and steering wheel, or how to combine three strong trends in the season. www.Balzac-Paris.FrThe pitch.It is his many trips to the United States who convince French Michaël Azoulay to launch the American Vintage brand in 2005.The starting point ?Update the T-shirt and decline it in an urban and modern way.Finally, it is the essentials of the wardrobe that are revisited in a refined way and in an increasingly appreciated effortless style, in recent seasons. Originality.How to make basics ultradesible, thanks to natural, fluid and very comfortable materials, without forgetting a perfectly chosen color palette. The bestseller.His cotton t-shirt, both trendy and timeless, for his fall and her superbly mastered cut. Spring-summer 2017.Always this relaxed style, which is appreciated for example through an oversized chew dress, thick retro meshes, a fleece trench, a cotton striped bra, slightly longer jackets than usual or pantsshortcut. www.American Vintage-Store.comThe pitch.Rouje with a J, like Jeanne Damas, this young Parisian Star of Instagram, total influencer, muse for her friend Simon Porte Jacquemus, Roger Vivier or Mango.A reference to the color of the lipstick that does not leave it, its signature.A name all found, therefore, for the brand online that this brunette with the appearance of Jane Birkin, now an actress too - she plays in Rock'n Roll, the last film by Guillaume Canet -, launched in April 2016, with her long friendDate, stylist Nathalie Dumeix.We find her ideal wardrobe, of seventies inspiration, and which takes up the basics of the iconic Parisian: Caracos, Minijpes, flared jeans and flowery dresses. Originality.Behind Rouje hides Jeanne Damas, but above all a collective, made up of talents and friends, who are photographers, stylists, artistic directors, models...We discover them on the label's website, at the same time as #LesfillesenRouje, these beautiful who post photos of them, dressed in an outfit of the brand.Nothing better to make the buzz and refer to the e-shop, at the same time. Best Sellers.In less than a year of creation, a few pieces are already standing, such as the Pascale blouse and its sham -shirt collar, the UMA pants, high waist, slightly shortened and flared, or the draped dress Laura. Spring-summer 2017.A vintage and poetic spirit dear to Parisian label, with sandals, white, blouses...We also find Jeanne Damascus's love for the South, the Sun and Liberty. www.Rouje.comThe pitch.This is the classic story of a young woman who does not find her happiness and ends up launching her brand.Raphaële Four, just thirty and Parisian, created at the end of 2014 Girls in Paris, an urban lingerie claw, sold exclusively on the Internet, at affordable prices.Sets that cost between 39 and 45 euros.A concept built around the premise of the just price, since the label does neither sales nor promotions. Originality.We are a thousand leagues from women in garter belts, thong and high heels.Here, make way for effortless but nevertheless sexy pieces, the kind of underwear that we put on daily, with jeans and sneakers.Just to continue to stir up the desires of clients, new features are presented every six to eight weeks. The bestseller.The Charlie lace triangle, all light, sexy but sober.Proposed in different colors and available in new forms: headband, body and garter belt. Spring-summer 2017.News department, point the homewear line called Maddie, which includes parts combining hook and microfiber. www.girlsinparis.comThe pitch.Originally, the Parisian Morgane Sézalory sells the treasures she china online, then customized.By dint of encouragement, she created, in 2013, Sézane - contraction of her name and surname.A brand sold only on the internet, without intermediaries, which allows it to offer quality at the right price.Watchword ?Classics, easy to wear and careful cutting.Just over three years later, the label launches four major collections each year, supplemented by a few limited series. Et livre 10 000 colis par mois, joliment empaquetés et estampillés de la mention """"fait avec amour"""". Originality.In the absence of shops, customers can walk virtually in the apartment, to soak up the brand's universe, try new products...There is also the bookstore, a place dedicated to books, coffee and bags, and the concierge, which allows you to recover or return its orders.Or three Parisian addresses, which will be completed in 2017 by a space in New York.Without forgetting the Instagram account of La Griffe and that of its charismatic creative, which inspires its very large community of followers. Best Sellers.In the radius of the iconic pieces are already the small Dean and Claude bags, the cheer jacket Will and the Jack sneakers. Spring-summer 2017.This new season revolves around the theme of art, with, among other things, an ultra-fluid-flush suit, pretty light dresses and suede abundant. www.sezane.comThe pitch.Two sisters, Katia and Vanessa Sanchez, launched the brand, in 1998.The idea?Imagine small tops, rare commodity when it comes to combining quality, light materials, pretty colors and fancy details. Si les Frangines ont commencé avec des tee-shirts, leur gamme s'est élargie à l'ensemble du vestiaire féminin.Optimistic creations, with original patterns and pastel shades, sometimes sprinkled with sequins.This is evidenced by this golden star, which makes these clothes recognizable between a thousand.The brand has more than sixty shops, including three in Belgium, where it is also sold in multi -brand. Originality.Word of mouth is the success of the label.His community, active on social networks, does not hesitate to like the slightest publication and post photos of his acquisitions, with the hashtag #despetitshautsaddict.Other specificity: the shops are uniquely decorated.And we favor contact there - the sellers call for loyal customers by their first name - and workshops do -it -yourself are organized there, to bring together aficionados. Best Sellers.Next to the sailor and the quilted jacket, it is the mohair sweater which remains the favorite piece of the label fans.For its soft appearance, the rendering of the color and the beautiful quality of its sons. Spring-summer 2017. Une saison vitaminée, avec une jolie palette de roses, des imprimés qui respirent le soleil, les Fruits sucrés et l'envie de voyages. www.despetitshauts.com